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Showing posts with label Dharamkot. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dharamkot. Show all posts

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Tibetan Exile Brothers Connection

The first I heard about JJI Exile Brothers was from my son Kevin, who had spent some time in McLeodganj, the town above Dharamsala where the Dalai Lama lives. By the way, in Hindi, Dharamsala means “abode of people in pursuit of the Divine”. Dharamsalas are hostels on pilgrim routes, where pilgrims or sadhus (wandering holy men) can find refuge for the night.

Kevin told us about the best restaurant in town, with the nicest staff, the healthiest food and the most interesting music.


He also mentionned that JJI were three brothers, rock musicians and really nice guys. Once we had settled at the yoga center in Dharamkot, we went a mile down the road to McLeodganj, to eat at JJI Exile brothers on Bhagsu Road. The restaurant we entered was really intimate, with 4 tables seating a maximum of 20 people.

We rapidly became regulars. We came for the family who runs it, with Tashi-Tashi, the brothers’ uncle and Niema, the brothers’ mother and Tashi’s sister, the two of them most often in charge of the place; and for Max, the gifted young cook.

Romantic evening ambiance during monsoon power shortages


We would study the antique decorations on the walls, read the dozens of faded cards and notes sent by customers from around the world, listen to the outstanding, eclectic choice of music, and of course taste the homemade, healthy Tibetan and Italian cuisine. In the evenings the ambiance would sometimes have a romantic touch, especially when monsoon rain power shortages would have us eat by candlelight, one candle per table.

Jigme and Max preparing dumplings and salsa


Tashi, Niema and Max have this warm, humble and deep authentic presence that we found in the whole family. Tashi and Max would frequently ask me for updates on Kevin' travels throughout India and Nepal, as they had made friends with him before his departure.

While eating we could hear Niema read the Hindustan Times in English to other Tibetan women sitting together. Like most everyone in McLeodganj, they would follow every statement, commentary or trip account concerning His Holiness the Dalai Lama. After all, she had immigrated as a child just a couple of years after he had, when the Chinese invaded Tibet in 1958, and had lived here ever since then longing for the day her country would peacefully regain its freedom and her family could go home.

One evening, as we were savoring our favorite dishes, –Thunthuk for Kamala, a Tibetan soup of fresh vegetables, subtle spices and fresh home made flat noodles, and cheese gnocchi for me -, a young man with a round face, dark mid-long curly hair and a warm, outgoing smile introduced himself. Jamyang, the older of the brothers sat down next to us, and, as we were commenting on the unique quality of the ‘40s and ‘50s crooner music playing that evening, gave us the short story of JJI.

The brothers’ Tibetan rock band, “JJI Exile brothers” had become increasingly famous several years ago, touring in the US and Europe, and generating a large following among their generation of Tibetan refugees in India. They recorded a CD that Jamyang popped on for us; it was a mix of traditional Tibetan music, rock, blues, country, and poetic ballades, all admirably composed, with Tibetan lyrics. Track four started with a few notes, immediately awakening a deep, stirring melancholy. As I shared my feeling with Jamyang, he explained that the song was called “If” and talked about what life would be like for his people if the Chinese invasion of Tibet had never happened.


The Three JJI Exile brothers, rehearsing in the basement before the concert,


and at the restaurant jam session


Regarding the Tibetan topic, India is in a challenging position. Tensions with neighboring China continue to make the headlines on several inter-related topics: the sensitivity of India hosting the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile, the waves of incoming refugees, as well as the indefinite border between Northern India and China, since a brief border war in 1962. See http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/19/world/asia/19india.html.

A quiet yet very present tension exists between Indians and Tibetans in the areas that have welcomed increasing numbers of refugees, currently estimated at around 100 000. Quiet because there is rarely any visible outbreak between non-violent Tibetans and peaceful Himalayan Indians; present because when you start asking about the topic, the Indians will share their frustration and irritation about the economic gaps between refugees and locals. While the Indian government and many NGOs are financially helping the Tibetan exiles, numbers of locals are still living in dire poverty. There is certainly a lot to be said from both sides; the Indians are more sensitive to the economics, while the Tibetans can legitimately question their uncertain future as refugees in a hosting land. These are just some complexities of the reality of Tibetan refugees that are visible only from here.

I asked Jamyang if the brothers ever put-on any concerts in McLeodganj. They hadn’t been playing in concerts for the past couple of years, he explained, other than in Vienna a few weeks earlier and in Amsterdam back in January... He told us they held regular music jams at the restaurant on Sunday nights and invited us over. That proved to be a challenge, as we rose before 5:00 am and started yoga practice at 6:00. We rarely would go down to McLeod to spend the evening…

Several weeks later, late June, after my 6-day return trip to New York for my daughter Meaghan’s graduation, Kamala and I decided to have lunch at JJI to celebrate my return. It was the ideal way to come back to the very particular pulse of McLeodganj and its surroundings.


As we greeted Niema and settled at our table, I was intrigued by some little flyers she was writing on. She told us the brothers were having a concert a week later, with a guest star, Raf, on the saxophone. When Jamyang came in towards the end of our meal I shared my excitement with him. We would actually hear them in concert before we left the area! He proposed that we come to listen to them rehearsing later that afternoon.

I postponed the visit to the next day, showed up at the restaurant to notice drum and electric guitar sounds arising somewhere from the rear of the restaurant. Max took me down the outdoor stairs, over some corrugated tin roofing the rain had made slippery a few minutes earlier, down a few more moldy cement steps and into to their small practice room. It was decorated with Tibetan images, prayer flags, graffiti, and crammed with a chaos of instruments, amplifiers and cables.



JJI stands for the 3 brothers’ names in order of age: Jamyang (Bass and lead vocals), Jigme (lead guitar, vocals) and Ingsel (drums and vocals). They were ending their first rehearsal set with Raf, so I had time to listen to a couple of songs before their break. Raf has been living in McLeodganj for a couple of years now, developing his personal style and composing for alto saxophone and clarinet, and attending meditation retreats. He had met the Brothers a few months earlier, but had only played with them a few times at the Sunday evening restaurant jam sessions.

He kindly offered me to play on his alto saxophone during the break. This was an exceptional treat since I hadn’t blown into a sax since I had moved out of my apartment in January! Jamyang and Raf stuck around and we had a little jam based on my very modest jazz repertoire. I was having a fabulous time; playing with musician friends contrasted from the more serious things we had been focusing on during our trip… personal discipline, fasting, learning and practicing yoga with the associated efforts and pains…

Talking with Jigme at the break, I learned that when the group was at its peak, several tragedies hit family and friends. The JJI Brothers lost their desire to play, tour and live the life of stage stars. They felt the loss in their family and the weight and despair of the cause they were advocating; the tragedy of their people became even more real to them through their own hardships.

Chinese government policies have been geared to eliminate and completely eradicate Tibetans from the cultural, social and economic picture by marginalizing them in their own country. These policies include taking housing away for a variety of “reasons”, moving Tibetans to ghettos, providing employment exclusively to the thousands of Chinese immigrants that arrive every week in Lhasa, making public schools not only payment based but too expensive for any unemployed Tibetan family to afford. Now Tibetan children are actually being kept away from public education in their own homeland.

The finishing of the direct Chinese train line to Tibet has since a couple of years drastically increased the number of Chinese immigrants coming to Tibet as a land of opportunity. Lhasa has been developed from the centuries old mythical spiritual center into a downtown of karaoke bars, brothels and gambling halls. “political prisoners” have been detained against human rights and monks demonstrating pacific resistance systematically tortured.

Many well documented films have been made on the topic. If you are interested in knowing more, look into the following documentaries : "Tibet: The Cry of the Snowlion", "Windhorse", "Dreaming of Tibet", "Tibet's Stolen Child".
http://www.studentsforafreetibet.org/article.php?id=83
http://www.studentsforafreetibet.org/

Jigme Mandul, friend, protest artist and stage performer /acrobat


Jigme Mandul painted half Tibetan flag, half skull.


The structured policies of the Chinese government have pushed young men towards rackets, drugs and alcohol and young women to prostitution. Despite a high degree of sympathy in principle for the Tibetan cause, the world continues to ignore how systematic and effective China has been in executing this program for the past 50 years.

For several years the Brothers had stopped playing, dropping into depression, “auto-medication” and hopelessness.

Raf explained later that the Amsterdam and Vienna concerts earlier this year had brought back some hope, re-building their interest to resume more serious music endeavors. He had started playing frequently with Jamyang over the past two months and this had just recently stimulated Jigme and Ingsel to want to play all together again. When I met them they were actually just starting to rehearse together as a group. Jamyang had the idea of planning a local concert and the date was set for July 6th, the location was Yongling Crèche and Kindergarten school hall on Jogiwara Road. They had but a week to prepare…

The practice resumed an hour or so later as I sat in a small humid corner, listening and observing how photogenic this tiny room tucked below the restaurant was. I could envision the beauty of some natural light pictures with the graffiti walls, the Tibetan decorations and the youthful energy they exuded. I had just brought a camera from New York and had found a perfect subject to explore! As they enthusiastically agreed for me to come back the next day with my camera, I thought it was definitely going to be a lot of fun, combining my passions for photography, music and for discovering people. It was going to be their first concert in McLeodganj for 3 years and had all the oomph of a come-back. And I wanted to encourage them and help turn the volume up!

The idea of having a Tibetan rock concert in McLeod had its detractors, even though the Brothers called it “The Freedom Concert”. Since the violent Chinese repression of Tibetan protests in April that cost the lives to hundreds of Tibetans and imprisonment to hundreds more, there was a moratorium on any public Tibetan entertainment.


Daily candle vigils at 6:30 pm in McLeodganj


Even the usual performance of the TIPA (Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts) for His Holiness’ birthday at the Dalai Lama’s temple in McLeod was cancelled this year. Protests throughout India and the regular evening candle vigils in McLeodganj were the only accepted forms of Tibetan public gatherings. This was one of the many ways for the Tibetan refugees to express their solidarity with their brothers and sisters back home.

To make a long story short, there were several days of practice below the restaurant and final rehearsal at the school. The sound equipment was minimal, several instruments feeding into the same amplifiers, microphones and guitar pickups crackling, cable problems to be soldered at the last minute. Raf and the brothers worked on details and solos of each song, while I took dozens of pictures, distributed flyers, put posters up and played some saxophone now and then.

The concert date had been chosen by chance, and happened to be the birthday of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. This was a very special day in Dharamsala. We had endured full monsoon weather for the past month with regular downpours, grey, foggy skies and very little sun. We had spent up to 10 days without seeing the sun at all.
Then, the day of the Dalai Lama’s birthday, in McLeodganj where His Holiness is established, the sun shone intensely in a perfectly blue sky all afternoon. It was as though we had been living in a bowl and the lid had been taken off, revealing a world above us that we had forgotten……the colors, the immensity and the depth.


Find the sign! The modest signage to direct people down the path


Everything was almost ready. Jigme, a cousin, and I made up a few last minute signs indicating where the concert was, out of paper bags from the grocery store next door, and taped them to the walls on Jogiwara road.



By the time the concert started, the hundreds of Tibetans, Indians and tourists from Korea, Japan, US, Europe and Israel that had lined up for their 100 rupee ($2.5) tickets had filled the school hall. Jigme, the cousin, lit candles along the stage as Niema welcomed everyone with words of peaceful protest and unconditional support for the guidance of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Then everyone joined in for a special Happy Birthday song. The concert took the form of an unassuming protest, with on-stage activist live-art creation, a painted dancing protestor and the activist lyrics of their songs.

Family and friends were volunteering at the desert and beverage table, serving homemade cakes, hot chai and soft drinks poured into plastic cups from half gallon bottles bought at the local grocery store. It really felt like a neighborhood fund-raiser, which in fact it was. All the proceeds were collected to buy a washing machine and dryer for a Tibetan old folks’ home.

The event was a big success. The audience was ecstatic, appreciating a rare live rock concert and the Brothers’ talent and overflowing energy level. With more than 300 tickets sold, the retirement home would get its appliances. The brothers had made a statement about their passion for their art and their audience.
We left around 10 pm, shortly before the end; when I saw the group the next day they were worn out. I think it was the emotional rush of being on stage again… in their home town.
In the following days I created a slideshow from the best of the rehearsal and concert pictures and distributed it to family and friends. It was my way of acknowledging the Brothers’ fine talent and encouraging them to be themselves in their art form.

Every Sunday evening the restaurant is transformed into a little theater for the jam session. Jigme offered that I play a couple of songs on the saxophone with them the following Sunday. That week was like the sequel of the previous one; we got to spend more time together, this time rehearsing “Gypsy”, a ballade evoking the migrant lives of refugees that Raf composed, and “ The Rose“ a blues -rock tune about freedom.

Rehearsing for the jam session

with Raf and Jamyang


The instruments and amps created a small stage space in the back of the restaurant and seating room for about 25 people was set up after ending the dinner service early and piling the few tables in the street. Tibetans and tourists filled the room while Niema served chai and deserts. After half an hour of music, Bhagsu Road was filled with people glued to the windows of the restaurant and listening from the street.



Kamala told us it was the evening she had the most enjoyed since we arrived in Dharamkot, 3 months earlier. It was such a blessing for me to actually work on a couple of tunes with musician friends and to perform with them in such an intimate, friendly atmosphere. I had spent a lot of time getting to know the brothers and family, my incursion into the world of Tibetan exiles in McLeodganj.


Looking at the concert pictures


The restaurant jam session


After the concert of the previous week, the Exile Brothers had made their come back to the McLeodganj scene and were making plans to tour the Tibetan schools in the area and share their art with refugee children. The next day Kamala and I started our Vipassana meditation retreat for 10 days… The day it ended, on our way to the train, we went to have lunch with Niema. She and her sons had gone to the US Consulate in Delhi to obtain visas to play in a couple of concerts in New York and the Midwest in the following month. The visas were not granted. Niema thought it could be because the Consulate was of Indian origin…
Our new family in Mcleodganj...
As Jigme put it one day, when I wanted to pay for our meal:
“Why would you pay? It separates us. Don't. We are together.”
On leaving McLeodganj, what we left behind was our Tibetan family.
That some day very soon we will come back to be with... and just be with...

Niema and Kamala


In the meantime, the Brothers are still preparing their tour of the schools and spending time sitting in front of JJI restaurant on Bhagsu Road in McLeodganj. They might be shooting the breeze, or composing their next tune, planning their next CD, or wondering again about that eternal homeland they have never yet seen...

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Back to blogging – the update

Wow! The last entry I posted was way back in Varanasi, early April… Could that actually have been 4 months ago? Believe it or not, I have recomposed these first lines of this blog entry probably 100 times in my head, over and over… Sometimes while doing yoga, sometimes when going to sleep, on hikes, while eating or meditating. I was thinking of the silence created over time, the potential loss of interest of you all, the commitment I made to keep it up, albeit irregularly and infrequently. It’s felt just like when I put off writing an email or a letter to someone. It gnaws and gnaws at me, but I still procrastinate and put it off a bit more.

The bottom line is that during this period I have definitely been into my Inner Journey to India.

If you wish to see the pictures at your own pace, full screen, slide show etc... log on to: www.picasaweb.google.com/Frenchyrjm



Days, weeks and months go by here with a muffled sense of time. We are living outside of our usual environment and seasons. Reference points such as holidays and social customs lack to punctuate our life and give us our bearings. We live by the local cycles - very different from the US -, in this country where the notion of time itself is completely elastic. As you will read further, in our case the yoga study program became our daily and weekly rhythm...

McLeodganj is perched a few miles above Dharamsala and is the home to the majority of Tibetan refugees in the area. The Tibetan government in Exile is located between Dharamsala and McLeodganj. Dharamkot, where we lived for these past 4 months is a little village of farms, houses, guesthouses and little restaurants spread out across a small valley and its surrounding hills, with no vehicle access, about a mile above McLeodganj, at 6000 feet (2000m) altitude.



Planning on staying several months at the Himalaya Iyengar Yoga Center (HIYC) (http://www.hiyogacentre.com/), we wanted to be close to our yoga study/practice and have more space than just a hotel or guesthouse bedroom. We rapidly rented the only apartment/house available in the entire valley from Sharat Arora, the yoga teacher. We had a small living room, a bed loft above, a bathroom without hot water, and a kitchen and hot shower one level below, down a rough, outdoor staircase. Read “walk in the dark and the rain for shower or cooking”. The furniture was one coffee table, one chair, a few mattresses as sofa and some cushions to sit on. And we felt so blessed to find exactly what we had wanted – at least the two essential criteria. Hot water in the bathroom would have been sheer bliss... Doesn't contentment have a lot to do with defining priorities and just letting go of non-priorities? And by the way, had we arrived a week later the house would have been occupied by old students who wanted it!

Sharat is a senior student of BKS Iyengar (http://www.bksiyengar.com/, http://www.iyengar-yoga.com/). Iyengar has been a prominent yoga master and author, who during the 20th century brought yoga to new levels of precision, alignment and body-mind awareness. Our schedule was immediately set. Thursday through Monday became our week, Tuesday and Wednesday our weekend. We woke at 4:50 am; I would open the hall at 5:00 for students’ access, start practice at 6:00 and attend class until 10:00.



The benefits from this yoga learning have been immense for me. They range from relieving many of my postural misalignments, physical tensions and pains (a result of numerous accidents, broken limbs and demanding physical work 25 years ago), to a heightened awareness of my body and its direct correlation with my mindset, morale and inner experience. It’s been an intense, painful and challenging journey and it's far from being over. I have realized what an unbalanced body I have been living with/in and the distance that remains to be covered just to come to basic physical harmony and feel that I’m currently addressing ailments that would just develop more and more in the coming years. Beyond rehabilitation lies the infinite depth of the yoga experience; I am already discovering more subtle levels of my body, mind and spirit over time.

After practice we would rest, have breakfast / lunch at home or at a local restaurant and spend the afternoon doing household chores -that the very basic living conditions made quite work-intensive-. We would also hike around the small hills and valleys, visit with fellow yoga students, walk into town for shopping and email, or stay home to edit the hundreds of pictures we took, play guitar or just read. We even started to learn silver jewelry making, that I pursued further.

But no writing!
Partly due to a severe right hand “trigger thumb” condition that had developed in Thailand, most probably induced by the considerable self-moves of our two houses back in California, my extensive journaling in Thailand, as well as several years of hourly use of my Treo email phone that I operated only with my thumbs. Beware PDA/Blackberry/Treo owners! I see a new type of work injury emerging, years after computer-work introduced carpal tunnel syndrome. The trigger thumb finally healed just a week ago, as a result of 2 cortisone injections (yuk), after 5 months of very limited use of my right hand.



Partly because I just needed to embrace the local life, paced by the monsoon weather, and not attempt to put into words my very inner experience... nor spend time on the keyboard and web technology (about 10-12 hours per blog all included).

Our sojourn and yoga study in Dharamkot lasted just short of 4 months, ending with a 10 day silent Vipassana meditation retreat (http://www.dhamma.org/). We left about a week ago and after traveling a full day and night, arrived in Rajpur, located an hour from Rishikesh, in Northern India. We are now attending a 3 week Iyengar yoga program at the Yog-Ganga Center for Yoga Studies (http://www.yog-ganga.com/). Senior students of BKS Iyengar, Rajiv and Swati Chanchani are giving us a complementary approach and perspective that will enhance the solid and so precise foundations that Sharat taught us at HIYC.

We’re also discovering a new environment after having been so firmly settled for 4 months in such a sweet little valley. It was tough to leave, repack and become itinerant again, though the timing was perfect for us to move on to new places, people and challenges.

I almost forgot, late June I made a 6 day return-trip Himalayas-Manhattan-Himalayas for Meaghan, my daughter’s graduation from the International Center of Photography. She just finished her Master’s degree in Photojournalism. My dear friends Bernard and Catherine put me up in their apartment and Bernard came to the inauguration of ICP exhibit Meaghan was participating in. My sister Ann and nephew Alex flew in from California, my brother John and his wife Sheri from Texas, and my mother Jef from Provence. We had a 3 day family reunion celebrating Meagan’s successful end of studies and her the commencement of her photography and journalism career. She’s now back in Grenoble, France, in her first paying photography job, taking wedding pictures.



Mid August we’ll be heading to the Nepalese border for a visa run, then down to Chennai, in Southern India for 2 months of study at the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram (http://www.kym.og/).

I’m planning to do some Global Human Resources consulting work in the November–December timeframe, preferably in Chennai/Bangalore, otherwise somewhere else in the world, and we’ll spend the winter in Kerala, the Southeastern state of India known for Ayurveda medicine, high literacy and a great quality of life.

This is just a quick catch-up, long due. The next postings will include Sweet Valley and People of Dharamkot, Yoga of organizations, Monastic Experience of Vipassana Meditation, Turning 50 in India, Tibetan Exile Brothers Connection, How Perfect Things Can Be When I Let Go of Control and Handle My Priorities, Kamala and Ricard's Top Ten budget traveler luxury items, and Nurturing Love.

Namaste and blessings to all,